I’d never been to Venice during the preview week of the Biennale, but with Venetian Heritage and Dior promising a ball at the fabled Palazzo Labia as the crowning glory of an action-packed few days, how could I resist?

In the past, I have enjoyed the Biennale in the relaxed aftermath of opening week—or even months afterward—so I was unprepared for the madness of the opening, with multiple parties every day and a frantic race to get from A to B in a city that relies on leisurely water transport and shanks’ pony.

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